From White Sunday to CHOGM: A 2024 Samoan Journey

Sunset view from Le Lagoto Lodge at Fagamalo, Savai'i Island, Samoa. Le Lagoto is Samoan for sunsets.

I touched down in Samoa just after a short layover in Nadi, Fiji, around 1 a.m. Immigration was surprisingly smooth, refreshingly efficient compared to some other Pacific islands I have visited. The airport was cool and air-conditioned, live traditional music welcomed arrivals, and my complimentary hotel taxi was ready and waiting.

I was staying at Salty Lodge, one of a handful of hotels catering mainly to airport and ferry travelers, a smart niche given the early arrivals, departures, and the fact that central Apia is about an hour away. My driver, seizing the opportunity, suggested a tour for the next day, promising it “wouldn’t cost much.” Groggy and sleep-deprived, I agreed, assuming there wasn’t much to see in this part of Upolu, the main but not largest island near Apia.

I hadn’t even set an alarm, yet by 6 a.m., the staff’s singing and laughter stirred me awake. Charming, perhaps, if I hadn’t been hoping for a few precious hours of sleep after a 1 a.m. arrival. It turned out this morning cheerfulness was a daily ritual, and by the next day I was woken in exactly the same way.

My sweet bungalow for two nights at Salty Lodge, Apia, Samoa.

The tour took me to many of the typical must-see sites in Apia. through the four places: waterfalls, Sua Ocean Trench, Giant Clams, but a bonus for me was the journey itself, viewing the brightly decorated roadside with flags of Commonwealth Countries, ready for this year’s CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting), matching flowers and painted tyres and other vessels. Samoa was confirmed as CHOGM host during the Leaders' Retreat at the previous meeting held in Rwanda in 2022. The island has been building up to next week's event ever since. As part of a national beautification programme, local residents have got into the spirit of things by each adopting a Commonwealth country and decorating their villages and roadsides with the respective flags, creating a colourful 30km promenade stretching from Samoa's Faleolo International Airport to the capital, Apia.

An estimated 6000 people were expected to arrive in Samoa for the event, including royal dignitaries, government officials, media, security and youth leaders.

Prime Minister Fiamē Naomi Mataafa said it was "very significant" for a small island nation to host the event. "We want to utilise the opportunities to highlight our particular situation. I think we can talk to people about it, but when they travel to this part of the world, they'll be able to see it more clearly for themselves," she said.

Villages have adopted Commonwealth Countries for CHOGM, decorating tyres, coconuts and other objects in preparation.

Colourful coconuts and Commonwealth country signage appeared all around the main roads in Samoa

Probably the most Instagrammable site in Apia is the Sua Ocean Trench. Known as “To Sua,” meaning “Big Hole” in Samoan, this 30-meter-deep natural swimming hole features crystal-clear and aqua blue waters. Formed by a collapsed lava tube, To Sua is connected to the ocean through a narrow opening, making it ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Like most nature sites in Samoa, there’s also a back-story and it holds a special place in Samoan culture. Revered as the “God of the Sea” or “Water of the Rock,” To Sua is considered sacred, believed to be the dwelling of the ocean god Tangaloa. There was a lovely beach nearby with chickens roaming around. I had read that the steps to descend to the water could be slippery and dangerous but they weren’t a problem for me. It’s not longer encouraged to leap into the water from a great height which is probably sensible. I managed to find a local nearby to take a few pics of me descending into the water; as you needed to purchase a ticket to enter, I guessed that he would be trustworthy and not run off with my phone!

Ready to jump! The Sua Ocean Trench; the ropes below are to help you get back to the steps in case the current is strong.

Looking into The Sua Ocean Trench. 

We also visited two of the many waterfalls on the trip. Sopoaga Falls could only be viewed from a distance and is on private property so a small donation was required.

Sopoaga Falls.

Togitogiga Waterfall was the subject of major renovation, probably pre-CHOGM, in partnership with the New Zealand aid Program. The workmen were friendly however, and one of them suggested that I could walk down the steps and take a swim (which another couple were doing at the time).  Bridges, pathways and fales (open shelter sheds) are all being renovated, making use of around 20 workers. I respected their privacy and only photographed the cascades and a few flowers. I wonder if KCIII (King Charles) will take a dip next week?

Togitogiga Waterfalls with cascades. 

The final stop was at the Giant Clam Sanctuary in Savaia Beach (not to be confused with the island of Savai’i). How I wish I had brought an underwater camera; this clam sanctuary is one of around 45 villages participating in the Giant Clam program (they were endangered as they are considered a delicacy) and the only one where you can snorkel. Each clam I viewed underwater had a different colour scheme and it was trippy watching them open and close. I loved that it was in the sea, not in some constructed pond and I needed to swim out a fair distance to reach them. The highlight of my day!

Swimming out to the Giant Clam Sanctuary in Savaia Beach. 

The fale (open shelter shed) where locals sold tickets to the Giant Clam Sanctuary in Savaia Beach; the village also adopted St Vincent and Grenadines for CHOGM, hence the painting of the village in the country's colours.

Yes, the clams were that big and even better seen alive, opening and closing underwater.

Before and after dinner I enjoyed walking along the road, watching the locals sitting around, playing volleyball and always being friendly; at the time of writing, I don’t think I have visited a country that in which the people are so friendly without expecting anything in return.

Open fale on the beach at Mulifanua, Samoa at sunset.

Mulifanua might be better known as the location of the ferry terminal but it is also a pretty and friendly village in itself.

On my second day, I decided to take my chances with the 10 a.m. ferry to Savai’i. The driver from the previous day’s tour had tried to alarm me into catching one of the earlier sailings at six or eight, but I was determined to risk it for a little extra sleep. With White Sunday approaching, a surge in weekend ferry traffic was expected as families travelled between islands to gather and celebrate.

An elderly woman and her granddaughter took me under their wing, guiding me to a seat and showing me where to stow my small suitcase. They explained that White Sunday is a day dedicated to children, something like Mother’s or Father’s Day, but on a far grander scale. The ferries, they warned, would be crowded and return tickets scarce.

Heeding earlier advice, I arrived at the terminal an hour ahead of departure. Once tickets were purchased, passengers queued for the waiting room, surrendering their stubs to the collector before boarding. As the ferry docked, the orderly line dissolved into the familiar free-for-all, and my newfound guardians gave me a gentle nudge toward the front.

I chose a seat on the upper deck, uncertain whether the cabin below offered air conditioning. The sea breeze was welcome, and I settled onto a steel bench among families, children, and just a handful of non-locals, some of whom, by chance, I met later at my hotel. Around me, people spread out cloths and lay down to rest, perhaps to make good use of the two-hour crossing or simply to ease the queasiness of the choppy ride.

Inside the colourful Ferry Terminal Waiting Room.

Around an hour and half later, once I arrived, I was farewelled by my new guardians and then I looked towards the buses; I was keen to experience one of the colourful open windowed buses but, after looking at the crowds of locals vying for a place, I decided that today wasn’t the day for this and randomly chose a taxi driver. The taxi didn’t use air con but open windows which I didn’t mind; the driver, whose name was Willie did his best to talk me into using his services and asked if I’d be his ‘friend’! I laughed it off and told him I was old enough to be his Mum; he said that he didn’t mind! At least he made some effort to point out a few features and answer questions and I made a mental note to return to the lava fields which looked fascinating as we drove by. He forgot that I had requested stopping at an ATM but willingly backtracked.

I had arrived at Stevenson’s at Manase, of course named after Robert Louis Stevenson, the famous Scottish writer and poet who had lived with his family on mainland Upolu in Apia for four years in the late 19th century, but the real reason I had booked this resort is that I had read that it was the best place to see turtles and that they sometimes walk right up to the beachfront. I had splurged on a bungalow with a beach view and fell asleep to the sound of the waves every night whilst here. After losing out on sleep during the flights I found myself needing a nap in the afternoon but with the beach directly opposite my room, there was still with time for venturing out and swimming.  The water was clear, and with my goggles I was able to view an array of colourful fish of different sizes and coral, but no turtled. Dinner at the resort consisted of 4-5 offerings, but no fish, which I thought strange, given the proximity to the sea. I settled on a chicken stir fry and demolished the lot, remembering that I had missed out on lunch.

An open fale; they are used as gathering spots for formal events such as funerals but also in the evenings, more casually; some people use them to hang out their washing too.

The local church at Manase Village.

Savai‘i is less developed than neighbouring Upolu, and its cultural life is considered more traditional. The island’s products include coconuts, copra, bananas, cacao, and taro.  Some cattle are raised, and wild pigs are plentiful; I often saw mother pigs being followed by piglets crossing roads.

Beachside fales, a novel experience for tourist accommodation.

On my second day in Savai’i, I veered right and wandered through a string of villages until I stumbled upon Safotu Catholic Church, Samoa’s very first Roman Catholic Church, famously built from bleached coral. Its blue and white coat of paint makes it project against the lush green backdrop. It was Saturday, so the air buzzed with White Sunday rehearsals as local youths practised their songs and dances. With the heat, humidity, and a 45-minute trek along the main road behind me, the idea of a return march to Stevensons was less than appealing.

The striking Safotu Catholic Church, made from bleached coral.

The interior of Safotu Catholic Church, with White Sunday preparations underway.

Sometimes you can be lucky as a bus headed my way so I assertively flagged it down. The trip cost around $2 and I was only the second passenger when I boarded. On the island, the buses are few and far between and tend to coincide with ferry times so I was lucky to get the ride; I even thought I might try to take a bus back to the ferry but this idea was dashed when later that day I saw a bus so full of passengers that people were sitting laps and hanging off the side of the bus!

The no frills interior of a local bus.

After a break I decided to venture out in the opposite direction and made it all the way to the Saleaula Lava Fields. On this site are ruins of an old Catholic Church and a grave site known as Virgin’s Grave as it is believed that a young girl died there just before the volcano erupted. The eruption was said to have continued from 1905-1911. Instead of humans, there were plenty of pigs and cute piglets who scurried away into the bushes when I arrived. After having walked around the lava field, which was hotter than the already 31 degrees Celsius due to the dark colour of the molten lava, I decided that I needed transportation back to Stevensons rather than walking yet another 1.5 hours along the hot main road. I enquired at the desk, and, as if they'd done it many times, they called over to a woman next door who willingly drove me and charged the going rate, whilst maintaining a reasonable conversation. If there was ever a country where hitchhiking felt both safe and ordinary, it was Samoa, and a ride with a local woman seemed far preferable to another hour and a half under the sun.

Fascinating patterns of lava inside the old catholic church at the Saleaula Lava Fields. 

A didactic panel inside the mini museum at the Saleaula Lava Fields.

The Virgins' Grave at the Saleaula Lava Fields. 

One of the many pigs who use the grounds and forest around the lava fields. The ruins of the old Catholic Church are in the background.

There weren’t that many of us at Stevensons, so I was fortunate to meet a family of three NZ teachers and receive an invitation to go with them to Le Legoto Resort which is a 5 minute drive or 40 minute walk away. Upon arrival, the difference between the two resorts was immediate: five fish specials on the menu, charming and efficiet staff and a sunset view to die for! I had already booked for the Sunday night buffet with a brass band performance so this was a perfect preview.

Mixed seafood with salad and taro chips at Le Lagoto Resort.

Sunday in Samoa means many things: church, closed shops, and quiet roads. Most Samoans attend services, so it’s wise to do your shopping the day before. With no buses and few taxis on Savai’i, I could stroll along the main road almost undisturbed. I joined the locals for White Sunday performances at the church in Manase, making sure my knees were covered out of respect. The Minister warmly welcomed me and a few French backpackers who’d also wandered in. Later, I returned to Le Lagoto for another excellent meal and live music from a local string band.

Inside the Congregational Christian Church of Samoa (C.C.C.S.) at Manase during a White Sunday performance.

Inside the Congregational Christian Church of Samoa (C.C.C.S.) at Manase during a White Sunday performance; they may look serious, but the children were having plenty of fun performing previously.

Outside the Congregational Christian Church of Samoa (C.C.C.S.) at Manase, which opened in 2020. Note the use of old tyres as planters for plants.

The ferry back to mainland Apia should have been straightforward, but Stevensons had once again forgotten the small detail of a driver. After a few polite reminders, and with time running out, I gave up, stood on the roadside and flagged down what I hoped was a taxi. Luckily, it was, and the young driver turned out to be excellent company, also on the island for White Sunday and happy to give me a crash course in local life.

To my surprise, the ferry was blissfully uncrowded, and soon I was checking into my new hotel, strategically chosen for its proximity to both Apia city and the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. Being Monday, the museum was closed, but I still made the climb to Stevenson’s grave, tucked up a steep hill behind the small Botanical Gardens. On top of the hill, beside the grave, groups of teenagers were flirting and showing off their physical prowess, adding a lively touch to the otherwise peaceful spot.

Carved into the stone is Stevenson’s famous epitaph, written by the author himself:
“Under the wide and starry sky,
Dig the grave and let me lie.
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will.
This be the verse you grave for me:
Here he lies where he longed to be;
Home is the sailor, home from sea,
And the hunter home from the hill.”

It was heartening to see locals and a few stray tourists (like me) making the most of the public holiday with a good uphill walk.

Robert Louis Stevenson's grave at the top of the hill.

The view from the hill where Robert Louis Stevenson's grave lies.

By Tuesday, I was confident the museums would finally reopen and that my cultural luck was about to change. It didn’t. The Museum of Samoa was closed, and the Cultural Village had taken the week off entirely to prepare for CHOGM. By this point, I’d trudged downhill in full sun and realised I’d forgotten sunscreen on my upper arms, an error I regretted. Rescuing myself from both heatstroke and humiliation, I flagged down a taxi and retreated uphill to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, which, thankfully, was open and wonderfully air-conditioned. I made it just in time for the guided tour, which ended with the guide singing Stevenson’s Requiem, the same poem etched on his tombstone I’d visited the day before. I’ve since heard other versions, but hers had a haunting beauty that gave me chills, perhaps helped by the air-con.

Interior courtyard of the very new Museum of Samoa; the museum was closed due to exhibition installation pre CHOGM.

Well maintained gardens below the Colonial style house of the Stevenson family. 

In 1890, Robert Louis Stevenson, his wife Fanny, her son Lloyd, and Stevenson’s widowed mother made a bold move to the island of Upolu in Samoa. There, at the foot of Mt Vaea, RLS built his dream home, Vailima, a grand tropical estate where he wrote, entertained, and threw himself wholeheartedly into the cause of the Samoan people.

Today, Vailima has been beautifully restored and stands as a world-class museum surrounded by lush botanical gardens and a national nature reserve. Inside, photographs capture moments of family life in this unlikely literary outpost. In the first room, our guide pointed out the famous fireplace: some say it was lit only once (with smoke stubbornly refusing to rise up the chimney), while others insist it was never lit at all. Either way, it was less about warmth and more a nostalgic nod to Scotland, proof that even in paradise, Stevenson missed the chill of home.

Inside one of the rooms of the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. The floors have pandanus matting, a traditional Samoan flooring material made from woven pandanus leaves.

Inside the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum: the guide pointed out the fireplace which was only built to remind RLS of Scotland; it didn't actually function.

The gardens were immaculately preserved which made for a pleasing walk back to my hotel ready to rest my cooked shoulders and to get ready for my flight out of the country. The street was experiencing a frenzy of activity from mural painting to garden slashing; everyone seemed to have a job preparing the town for the following week’s CHOGM. The matriarchal manager at my hotel was full of information and suggestions and I learnt that both she and her mother (who seemed to sit in the open restaurant area all day) were from the Cook Islands. That night a local family used the restaurant for a birthday party which seemed fun with excited children dancing and loud music pumping. When I arose only a few hours later to transfer to the airport for my early flight I found the manager and her mother still sitting out in the restaurant. “Just taking it all in..” she said.

The village close to the centre of Apia had adopted St Lucia for CHOGM and schools had engaged in a mural painting program.